Canyon de Chelly, Arizona (Page 3 of 3)

Historic Human Occupation

With the exception of sporadic Hopi occupation and farming, the Canyon de Chelly region remained unpopulated until Navajo people began to settle in the region in large numbers around 1750. Many of these settlers had been pushed out of former territories by pugnacious Ute tribes. The newly arrived Navajos learned agriculture from neighboring Pueblo peoples, whom they also raided for food and women. The canyon's reliable stream and fertile soils supported their crops, while the rocky alcoves provided refuge from attacking enemies such as the Ute and Comanche. As Spanish settlers encroached on the region in the late 18th century, the de Chelly Navajo often harbored fugitives from foreign rule, including Puebloans and other Navajo. Spanish attempts to subdue native peoples and convert them to Christianity were not well-received. The Navajo and other tribes often stole horses and livestock from the Spanish; many of these animals were brought to Canyon de Chelly.

View down Canyon del Muerto near Antelope House ruin. Photo NAU.PH.96.4.22.12 by Bill Belknap, courtesy of Cline Library Special Collections, Northern Arizona University.

In 1804, Spanish Lieutenant Antonio Narbona marched his men into Canyon de Chelly and attacked a group of women, children and elders hiding in what is now called Massacre Cave in Canyon del Muerto. One hundred and fifteen Navajos were killed and thirty-three taken captive in the two-day assault. Today, hundreds of bullet holes scar the cliff and bones of the victims remain scattered in the cave, untouched by the Navajos, as is custom. Raids and counter-raids continued for many decades, with both sides taking livestock and captives for slavery from each other. The situation only worsened after the U.S. gained its western territories in the Mexican War, leading to warring between Anglo-Americans and Navajos. Soldiers confiscated the Navajos' livestock and destroyed their crops. By the time Kit Carson arrived in 1863, the Navajos had little energy to resist, and the majority were marched off to Fort Sumner.

The Navajo returned to Canyon de Chelly from Fort Sumner in 1868, after a treaty was negotiated. Under the treaty terms, a 3.5 million acre Navajo reservation was created that encompassed Canyon de Chelly and the Chuska Mountains. Homes were rebuilt, flocks of sheep reestablished and fields cultivated, as warring and raiding became a thing of the past. Since then, the Navajos have remained in the canyons, both permanently and seasonally, tending fruit orchards and farming corn, melons, squash and beans. Overgrazing of large sheep herds on the rangeland has caused desertification of some pastures, as well as disastrous erosion. In the 1930s the U.S. government moved to drastically reduce herds, a difficult experience for these pastoral people. By 1935, the reservation area had been increased to its modern size of 18 million acres, greatly relieving grazing pressures as herdsmen were able to spread out over the region.

Canyon de Chelly Navajos in front of hogan c. 1927. Photo NAU.PH.413.194 by Philip Johnston, courtesy of Cline Library Special Collections, Northern Arizona University.

Canyon de Chelly was declared a national monument in 1931. In a rare arrangement with the National Park Service, tribal rights and land ownership were preserved in the park, with the Park Service and the Navajo Nation jointly managing the lands. Coal, uranium and oil mining on the reservation lands around the canyon, though controversial, have provided the Navajo people with a great financial boost. The schools, hospitals and roads of the large Navajo towns of Chinle just west of the monument and Window Rock south of the monument on the Defiance Plateau were largely financed by mining royalties.

Today the monument is a popular destination of the Four Corners area.  Visitors come to view the spectacular ruins and scenery, as well as for recreation. In 1998, over 2 million visited the park. Also the Navajo exert strict controls over their activities, such large numbers of visitors take a toll on the monument and its residents.

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--Researched and written by Shannon Kelly

Research:

Native Americans and the Environment. A comprehensive survey of twentieth century environmental issues facing Native Americans on the Colorado Plateau and throughout the Southwest, including discussions of agriculture, logging, mining, grazing, water rights, and tourism.

References:

Betancourt, J.L. and Davis, O.K. 1984. Packrat middens from Canyon de Chelly, northeastern Arizona: paleoecological and archaeological implications. Quaternary Research 21: 56-64.

Brugge, D. M. 1986. A military history of Canyon de Chelly. Pp. 42-49 In: Noble, D. G., editor. Houses beneath the rock: The Anasazi of Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument. Ancient City Press, Santa Fe, NM.

Dean, J. S. 1986. Tsé Yaa Kin: Houses beneath the rock. Pp. 2-13 In: Noble, D. G., editor. Houses beneath the rock: The Anasazi of Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument. Ancient City Press, Santa Fe, NM.

Fall, P. 1986. The Anasazi of Canyon de Chelly. Pp. 34-41 In: Noble, D. G., editor. Houses beneath the rock: The Anasazi of Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument. Ancient City Press, Santa Fe, NM.

Grant, C. 1990. Canyon de Chelly: Its people and rock art. The University of Arizona Press, Tucson, 290 pp.

Haas, J. 1986. The evolution of the Kayenta Anasazi. Pp. 14-23 In: Noble, D. G., editor. Houses beneath the rock: The Anasazi of Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument. Ancient City Press, Santa Fe, NM.

McKenna, P. J. and Travis, S. E. 1989. Archaeologicalinvestigations at Thunderbird Lodge, Canyon de Chelly, Arizona. Southwest Cultural Resources Center Professional Paper Number 20. Branch of Cultural Resources Management, Division of Anthropology, National Park Service, Santa Fe, NM, 118 pp.

Schaafsma, P. 1986. Anasazi rock art in Tsegi Canyon and Canyon de Chelly: A view behind the image. Pp. 24-33 In: Noble, D. G., editor. Houses beneath the rock: The Anasazi of Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument. Ancient City Press, Santa Fe, NM.

Supplee, C., Anderson, D. and Anderson, B. 1974. Canyon de Chelly: The story behind the scenery. KC Publications, Las Vegas, NV, 32 pp.

Thompson, M. and Silentman, I. 1986. Canyon de Chelly: A Navajo view. Pp. 50-56 In: Noble, D. G., editor Houses beneath the rock: The Anasazi of Canyon de Chelly and Navajo National Monument. Ancient City Press, Santa Fe, NM.